A wine tour in Minneapolis? No way!

You might be surprised to find out the above picture was taken in Minnesota.

Minnesota? you ask. How can a climate that cold support wineries?

Well, let's face it - some spectacular ice wines come from Canada, after all. And Minnesota's wine industry has been around since 1973, when David Bailly started his vineyard outside of Minneapolis. There are now some eighteen vineyards across Minnesota, but the half dozen around Minneapolis make for a wonderful day of exploring, tasting, and enjoyment.

I was surprised to discover that Minneapolis had a thriving wine scene - but as I did a little research, preparing to spend a long weekend in the area, I stumbled across the Three Rivers Wine Trail website. (The three rivers in question are the Saint Croix, Cannon, and Mississippi.)

Some of the locals aren't even aware of their state's hidden treasure - after returning home to Chicago, I mentioned to a friend in Minneapolis that I had taken the Three Rivers Wine Trail last weekend, and she said, "We have wineries in Minnesota?" Oh, yes, indeed!

If it weren't for the harsh winters, it would not be so unusual to think of Minnesota as a wine-growing region. It shares the same latitude as the Bordeaux and Burgundy winegrowing regions of France, and during the summer growing season, actually gets more than an hour extra sunlight per day than the majority of California wineries. If the vines can survive the brutal winter cold, then the summer conditions are quite good for wine - bright, sunny days with cooler evenings. The long days allow plenty of flavor to develop in the grapes.

The University of Minnesota's horticultural department has worked directly with local wineries and on their own to develop grape varietals that can survive - and thrive - through Minnesota's harshest weather conditions. WineHaven, for example, worked with UoM to develop the 'Chisago' grape. UoM has also developed the LaCrescent and Frontenac grapes popular throughout the Midwest; as well as many popular varieties of fruits such as Honeycrisp and Honeygold apples, the Summercrisp pear, the Redwing raspberry, and the Northcountry blueberry.

My interest was piqued, so I pulled up google.com/maps, looked at the location for all the wineries, and saw they made a nice loop around the eastern side of Minneapolis. The local wineries kick off the spring growing season with a barrel tasting; what better excuse to take in the wine trail?

My first stop was the northernmost of the wineries - WineHaven Winery and Vineyard (9757 292nd St., Chisago City, MN). The Peterson family has three generations of farmers in the family - they are known locally for their fruit and honey (thus, the bee on their label). The winery was started fifteen years ago and has since then earned over 160 awards. The vineyard has a new proprietary grape varietal, the Chisago, which was bred to withstand the local weather demands and which produces a lovely red wine.

I was particularly enamored of their Riesling, and another specialty of theirs - their Honey Wine (Mead), which had a wonderful light, crisp flavor. The staff here is incredibly friendly, and it was a great place to start off my regional wine tour.

Next up was Northern Vineyards, located at 223 Main Street North in the charming town of Stillwater. NV has some of the longest hours (open til 8 or 9pm during the summer; 6-7pm in the winter, depending on what day of the week it is), and since they are located in the heart of town, was the busiest of all the wineries I visited. Northern Vineyards uses grapes from Minnesota and western Wisconsin vineyards, and carry varietals with charming names like Edelweiss, Prairie Smoke, Yellow Moccasin, Prairie Rose, and Lady Slipper. You can buy food from the co-op grocer next door, then come over to NV and buy a glass of wine and enjoy your meal on their open-air deck, which overlooks the St. Croix River.

Stillwater is a great place to enjoy lunch, and a monster-sized ice cream cone at local favorite Nelson's Drive Inn Dairy Store, where $4.50 will get you a cone so huge that it begs - needs! - to be shared.

Also located in Stillwater but across town is Saint Croix Vineyards (6428 Manning Ave., Stillwater, MN). Saint Croix's tasting room made me momentarily forget that I was in Minneapolis, not California, with its bustling tasting room.

Established in 1992, they have a selection of whites and reds, but are perhaps best known for their knockout Raspberry Infusion, a yummy dessert wine.

Alexis Bailly Vineyard (18200 Kirby Ave., Hastings, MN) - the granddaddy of Minnesota wineries - is a perfect halfway point on the wine tour. Surrounded by lush farmland, the 'winery' sign points you down the vineyard's road between neat vines to the barn-style tasting room.

ABV's founder, David Bailly - originally an attorney - adopted the motto "Where the grapes can suffer" for his vineyard, based on the French winemaker idea that in order to make great wine, the grapes must go through hardship - wind, sleet, snow and draught. The winery has won awards proving that yes, indeed, Minnesota wines have suffered enough to be great wines.

Falconer Vineyards (3572 Old Tyler Rd, Red Wing, MN) can be a bit of a challenge to find, but is apparently quite popular, as they were very crowded. So crowded and busy, in fact, that I had to wait to get a tasting. (It made me feel like I was on 128 in Napa on a Saturday!) Opened in 2004, they are also one of the youngest wineries.

If WineHaven was a great way to kick off the day, then Cannon River Winery (421 Mill Street West, Cannon Falls, MN) was the perfect way to end it. Located in picturesque Cannon Falls, the winery is open late on Fridays and Saturdays. Located in a gorgeous old renovated building, it is a great way to end your tour. Like WineHaven, they also have a Honey Wine, as well as an Apple Wine, and a palette of whites, reds, and blushes, including a tasty port. I particularly enjoyed their St. Pepin (white) and their 'Sogn Blanc', made from local Edelweiss grapes. The staff here was really nice and they had live music as well.

You can do all six of these wineries in about 6-7 hours; or any of them are an easy trip from Minneapolis. Doing them all in one loop is 175 miles (going mainly off-highway/direct routes; I relied on my NeverLost/GPS), driving through beautiful farm land and pretty towns on the eastern side of Minneapolis. It was a surprising discovery, well worth the time to explore, and I look forward to adding more Minnesotan wines to my collection!

Whimsical in Minneapolis

"Spoonbridge and Cherry" by Claes Oldenburg and Coosje van Bruggen
Minneapolis Sculpture Garden
May 2009

I don't know why I am so *delighted* with this sculpture, but it was one of the things I HAD to make the effort to find in Minneapolis this past weekend. I saw a picture of it years ago and thought, "If ever I go to Minneapolis, that's a must-see."

One of my favorite discoveries in Minneapolis

Weisman Art Museum
Minneapolis, Minnesota
May 25, 2009

Can't win 'em all

Boston Red Sox vs. Minnesota Twins (6-5, Sox)
Memorial Day - 5/25/09

One of many fun Chicago summer fairs

The Randolph Street Market Festival kicks off its summer season this weekend - Saturday 10-5 and Sunday 10-4. Part flea market/antiques fair, part indie designer mart, part food festival - it's like Portobello Market meets the Midwest. Admission is $10, and pets are allowed for the outdoor part of the Market. (Market rules state no Dobermans or pit bulls, however.)

The RSMF runs the last full weekend of the month from May through the end of September.

Riding the rails - learning from other countries

The Swiss have one of the most highly developed public transportation networks, encompassing all forms of transport at the center of Europe. When I last visited, I admit I was impressed at the improvements to the already-extensive Swiss train network in particular. Transportation to nearly everywhere in Switzerland is available either by bus or train; their system runs efficiently and smoothly, and the equipment is well-maintained and comfortable.

President Obama has expressed the desire to see a better national train network in place in the U.S.; our current system shows its age and is very pricey for long-distance travelers when compared against flight costs or vs. comparable journeys in Europe or Asia.

A traveling exhibit titled The Challenge of Sustainable Transportation for the 21st Century: The Prospects for Switzerland and the U.S. will be presented in Chicago at the 2009 APTA Chicago Conference, June 14 -17, 2009, at the Hilton and Towers Hotel, 720 South Michigan Ave, Chicago.

Summer is nearly here!

Navy Pier, Chicago - rising 150 feet above the lake
May 17, 2009

Marine Week, Chicago

It's Marine Week here in Chicago. The USMC has a variety of events and demonstrations that have gone on around town all week, including this weekend. The events listed below are free and opened to the public (except one event, as noted):

FRIDAY

12 p.m. - 7 p.m. – Marines at Arlington Park Racetrack - aircraft, robotics, technology and vehicle displays in the Arlington Park parking lot. (2200 W Euclid Ave., Arlington Heights, IL)

2:30 p.m. - 4:30 p.m. – Musical Performance at Arlington Park Racetrack - a performance by the 29 Palms Jazz Band.

3 p.m. - 6 p.m. – Musical Performance at the Navy Pier Dock Street Stage - The 29 Palms Marine Band will perform at the Navy Pier Dock Street Stage.

SATURDAY

10 A.M. - 6 p.m. – Marines at Navy Pier - robotics, technology and vehicle displays, the National Museum of the Marine Corps exhibit, Martial Arts and Combat Fitness demonstrations, and the 29 Palms Marine Band.

In addition to the USMC exhibition, those attending at Navy Pier will want to check out the Navy Pier and USO of Illinois salute to the Armed Forces, 12 noon - 5 p.m. The Children's Museum at Navy Pier is also offering free admission to all active service members and up to 4 guests.

10 A.M. - 6 p.m. – Marines at Arlington Park Racetrack - aircraft, robotics, technology and vehicle displays in the Arlington Park parking lot. (2200 W Euclid Ave., Arlington Heights, IL)

8 p.m. - 9:30 p.m. – Musical Performance at Navy Pier, Skyline Stage - Marine Corps Silent Drill Platoon, “The Commandant’s Own” The Marine Drum and Bugle Corps and the 29 Palms Marine band.

SUNDAY

7:00 A.M. - 11:00 A.M. – Musical Performance at Chicago Spring Half Marathon - Marine Corps runners will participate in the race and the 29 Palms Marine Band will perform. (Race start at Wacker Drive and finish at Lake Shore Park, Chicago, IL)

10:00 A.M. - 6:00 p.m. – Marines at Navy Pier - robotics, technology and vehicle displays, the National Museum of the Marine Corps exhibit, Martial Arts and Combat Fitness demonstrations, and the 29 Palms Marine Band.

11:15 A.M. - 6:00 p.m. – Marines at Arlington Park Racetrack - aircraft, robotics, technology and vehicle displays in the Arlington Park parking lot. (2200 W Euclid Ave., Arlington Heights, IL)

12:00 p.m. - 2:30 p.m. – Special Marine Demonstrations at Arlington Park - Marine Corps Silent Drill Platoon, “The Commandant’s Own” - The Marine Drum and Bugle Corps and Marine Corps Aircraft Demonstrations. Arlington Park entrance fees apply. (2200 W Euclid Ave., Arlington Heights, IL)

6:00 p.m. - 7:30 p.m. – Performance at Arlington Park Racetrack - The USMC Battle Color Ceremony features "The Commandant's Own," The United States Marine Drum & Bugle Corps, The USMC Silent Drill Platoon, and the Color Guard from Historic Marine Barracks, Washington, DC. (2200 W Euclid Ave., Arlington Heights, IL)

Exploring new tastes

White anchovies on Finn Crisp

One of my mother's favorite snack foods has long been a product called Finn Crisp. When I was a kid, I was not keen on the flavor; but like many things, as an adult, I have come to find I really like their crisp breads.

I didn't like sardines or anchovies while I was growing up, either. But two or three years ago, Sam's Wines in Chicago had a rather large wine tasting right before the holidays, and among the many items to taste was a selection of food items from their upscale deli. One of the choices was boquerones - white sardines. And let me tell you, these petite fish were delicious.

Anchovies and sardines are actually quite healthy to eat, provided you fully drain them from the olive oil they are generally packed with. I buy a 200 g/7 oz. sleeve of Dinon white sardines from Whole Food; the package says one serving is the whole package (drained) is 190 calories - but I usually only eat about 1/4 of the package at a time.

I get produce weekly from Fresh Picks, a local organic food delivery service. Thanks to Fresh Picks, I have introduced a wide variety of items to my diet that I would previously, at best, have glanced over in confusion at my local grocery, such as celery root, ramps, and collard greens. They give lots of "normal" vegetables, also, but the point is that I have a weekly box of fresh organic food, and I have been experimenting and delving into my forty (yes, forty) cookbooks in order to come up with new and interesting ways to cook food.

Four years ago, I hit my highest weight, and literally cried when I stepped off the scale. I have lost and kept off 85 pounds, and I still have more to go, but one of the most important things I did for myself was to take a long, cold look at my diet, and ruthlessly refine it. Out went the pastas and cereals and breads that seemed to make up the bulk of it. Goodbye, excess sugary snacks. Hello, healthy, organic eating. It took a lot of little steps that turned into bigger steps, but I vastly changed my diet, and my health, along the way.

So now I try to eat a lot more vegetables, although I would not consider myself vegetarian. I can go long stretches without meat, but personally, I believe that humans are omnivores for a reason. And despite my love of a meat-heavy diet, I've even changed that. But I still need to get protein, and when I limit my protein intake to just vegetables, I don't feel right. (I have plenty of vegetarian friends who are strictly vegetarian and have no problems; but I believe in listening to my body, and sometimes, my body wants/needs a little meat/fish/fowl.)

This brings me to anchovies, which are reportedly some of the most nutrient-rich fish you can consume. Being low on the food chain, they are also far less likely to contain concentrations of things like mercury or other toxins found in large fish such as swordfish and tuna. And you know what? Turns out, they're really tasty.

Now, I haven't tried "common" brown anchovies/sardines, because I've been so pleased with the boquerones/white anchovies. I'm not much of a fan of herring, either, but it turns out that herring is directly related to anchovies and sardines. (So it amuses me to know some people who love herring but who adamantly refuse to touch anchovies/sardines.) Herring is very popular in Scandinavian cuisine.

So, in my effort to come up with some new ways to enjoy various foods, I thought about the Finn Crisp, and the white anchovies, and that's when I came up with the snack that you see in the picture at the top of this entry. Two boquerone fillets (drained, of course) per cracker; topped with a spoonful of pico de gallo, and some chopped raw spinach. Total calories - around 40-50 per cracker. Time to prepare - 3-5 minutes. Lots of protein, omega-3's, and mm-mmm flavor goodness! The crisp crunchiness of the Finn Crisp is a great balance to the rich, oil-tender anchovy.

Even the statues at the Field Museum have pennant fever

Go, Blackhawks!!

Chicago event

Very excited to find out about this - Michael Pollan, author of Omnivore's Dilemna and In Defense of Food: An Eater's Manifesto, will be speaking at Cindy Pritzker Auditorium, Harold Washington Library Center in the Loop, Monday, May 18 at 6:00 p.m.

Suzhou, China

Suzhou is an easy day trip from Shanghai - about an hour by bullet train - and is one of the oldest towns along the Yangtze River, with a chronicled history of over 2,500 years. Often called the 'Venice of the East', Suzhou is a wonderful place to take a boat tour on the Grand Canal. The city is reknowned for its walled gardens, especially the Master of the Nets and the Humble Adminstrator's Gardens.

“Prosit!”

Distillerie Zur Schnapsboutique
Zurich, Switzerland - October 2005

One of the more interesting stops for me in Zurich when I last visited was a place called Distillerie Zur Schnapsboutique, located in the old part of the city, at Napfgasse 3 (just off Münstergasse), a short walk north from the Grossmünster cathedral. Here you will find liquors (as well as oils, vinegars and more) sold the old-fashioned way: you start off by choosing a container, and then you select your schapps or brandy or whatever catches your fancy within the store. It is a unique experience, and even if you don't buy anything, it is worth the time to search out this store.

Bottles range from simple and inexpensive (think old-style milk jugs) to expensively ornate; and what you can fill them with encompasses a wide range as well.

It is a heady experience simply to walk into the store - the small space is filled with wood racks, holding giant glass globes half-filled with liquids of varying scents and colors. (I could have easily spent an hour in the store, simply photographing, and another hour, sniffing at the various jugs!) The scents are not overpowering, either; it is a pleasant blend that speaks of warm evenings before a fireplace; good food shared among friends. If you are in Zurich, I would definitely recommend a stop in while strolling around the older parts of the city.